Fragrance Classification
The word Oriental has been used in fragrance for decades, while Amber is now the preferred classification in major fragrance mapping systems. Four State of Mind fragrances sit in this territory, each with its own interpretation.
Why Did Fragrance Classification Change?
For much of modern perfume history, the word Oriental was used to describe rich, warm compositions. In 2021, Fragrances of the World announced a change in its English-language classification system, replacing Oriental with Amber and updating related families to Soft Amber, Floral Amber and Woody Amber.
The change was part of a broader move toward more inclusive fragrance terminology. The older word had become increasingly questioned because of the cultural associations attached to it.
The terminology may have changed, but the older search term remains relevant to people looking for this style of fragrance. That is why you may still encounter Oriental perfume, Amber perfume and Woody Amber used across different sources.
What Does Amber Mean in Perfume?
Amber is a fragrance family, rather than a single ingredient that appears in every amber perfume.
That distinction matters when looking at a fragrance label. A perfume can belong to an Amber family without having the word amber listed among its notes. Another can contain Amber as an actual note while belonging to a different family.
This is exactly where the four State of Mind fragrances become interesting. They share part of the same olfactory territory, but each approaches it differently.
Woody Leather
Modern Nomad
Modern Nomad begins with the spirit of travel and memories gathered along the way. Its character is powerful and sensual, with the tea pairing giving the fragrance a distinctive depth.
- Top Notes:
- Grilled Hojicha Tea · Lapsang Souchong · Puerh Tea
- Heart Notes:
- Plum · Amber · Patchouli · Rose
- Base Notes:
- Leather · Oud · Vanilla
Woody Amber Green
L'Ame Slave
L'Ame Slave explores a more instinctive and mysterious side of the collection. Inspired by Rachmaninoff's Second Concerto, it moves between strength, sensuality and delicacy.
- Top Notes:
- Bergamot · Lemon · Cornflower
- Heart Notes:
- Ginger · Honey · Vanilla
- Base Notes:
- Puerh Tea · Siberian Cedar · Birch · Sandalwood
Gourmand Amber
Fanfarone Italiano
Fanfarone Italiano is the collection's distinctive coffee creation. Its character is rich, warm and complex, with coffee at the center of an indulgent interpretation of the Amber territory.
- Top Notes:
- Blackcurrant · Neroli · Orange Peel
- Heart Notes:
- Chocolate · Coffee · Tonka
- Base Notes:
- Cocoa · Cognac · Walnut Alcohol · Amber
Intense Woody Amber
Oriental Opulence
Oriental Opulence takes the idea of abundance to its most opulent expression. Inspired by Scheherazade and the Ballets Russes, it explores luxury, prosperity and splendor through the language of the Maison.
- Top Notes:
- Ceylon Kenilworth Tea · Prickly Pear · Bergamot · Davana
- Heart Notes:
- Taif Rose · Rose of Jericho · Damask Rose · Saffron
- Base Notes:
- Akigalawood · Amber · Oud · Patchouli
Four Fragrances, One Olfactory Territory
Looking at these four together makes one thing clear: a fragrance family does not determine the personality of a perfume.
Modern Nomad expresses the spirit of travel. L'Ame Slave explores a deeper and more instinctive emotion. Fanfarone Italiano brings coffee into the picture. Oriental Opulence takes the idea of abundance somewhere grander.
The classification helps you understand the general territory. The state of mind tells you where the fragrance actually takes you.
FAQs Section
Is Oriental the same as Amber in perfume?
They refer to closely related fragrance classifications, but Amber is the newer terminology used by Fragrances of the World after its 2021 classification update.
Why do some perfumes still say Oriental?
The older terminology remains widely used in fragrance descriptions and searches, even after major classification systems moved toward Amber. This is why both terms can still appear when researching the same style of perfume.
Does an Amber perfume have to contain Amber as a note?
No. A fragrance family and an individual perfume note are different things. A perfume can belong to an Amber family without listing Amber among its notes.
What is a Woody Amber perfume?
Woody Amber is a fragrance family in which woody character plays an important role within the Amber territory. Fragrances of the World uses Woody Amber as the updated classification for what it previously called Woody Oriental.
Why does State of Mind use both Oriental and Amber?
The Maison's collection includes fragrance names and descriptions that reflect its own artistic vocabulary, while modern fragrance classification uses updated terminology. Both can therefore appear in the context of the collection.
